Article

Sustainable extraction and application of natural indigo dye from Assam rom [Strobilanthescusia (Nees) Kuntze] on handloom silk and cotton fabrics

Author : Ashis Narayan Banerjee1*, Dibyendu Bikash Datta2

E-mail : banerjeeashisnarayanamita@gmail.com
Article Metrics
  • Views: 5
  • Downloads: 0
  • Published: June 13, 2026
Abstract

Natural indigo dye has been successfully extracted from Strobilanthescusia (Nees) Kuntze, commonly referred to as Rom or Assam indigo, a plant traditionally cultivated in Assam. Using an indigenous fermentation technique, the extraction yielded indigotin with a purity of 55.5%, thereby supporting environmentally responsible practices in textile processing. This research centres on optimising fermentation conditions, particularly the pH, to maximise indigotin yield while preserving fabric integrity and colour fastness. Dyeing trials conducted on eri silk, mulberry silk, and cotton fabrics exhibited excellent colour absorption, high ratings for light and wash fastness, and retention of yarn tensile strength, with only minor reductions noted in mechanical properties. The dyeing process, which utilises natural reducing agents such as molasses and alkaline substances like lime, is refined to ensure both ecological safety and effective dyeing performance. Post-dyeing assessments confirm the suitability of these natural indigo extracts for traditional handloom weaving, producing vivid, sharply defined patterns that do not compromise fabric quality or structural integrity. The integration of traditional knowledge with scientific refinement highlights the potential of natural indigo as a sustainable and culturally significant alternative to synthetic dyes, supporting both environmental conservation and the economic empowerment of rural artisan communities.

Keywords: Cotton, Handloom, Natural indigo,Rural entrepreneurship,Silk, Sustainable dyeing

Full Article

Loading document...